Barrel of My Life

Tuesday, Newport Beach, dawn patrol, final day of Fabiola hurricane swell. It was like 3-5 occasional 6' racy lefts that we're SUPER hallow. I took this 6' left that lined up really well. I got tones of speed and pulled into the barrel, completely untouched, and travelled in it for at least 6-8 seconds! It seriously felt like what I imagine indo or Fiji is like. There were guys down the line up cheering me on cuz it was soooo sick. Didn't quite make it out though, but still super stoked.